My life has gotten so busy right now, that I have neglected my tank. I let AEFW and PO4 (phosphates) invade what use to be a beautiful tank. I battled AEFW for about 4 months, and am happy to say that I have gotten rid of them thanks to the use of Levamisole (follow it here). But, I recently noticed that my PO4 levels are through the roof. I am experiencing STN (recession) on corals because they cannot take the high levels of PO4. I do not have the patience to keep at it like I used to. These corals need a better home.

So I have decided to get rid of almost all of my sps corals. Some are in excellent shape, and some have started to recede. All they need is a good home with great parameters, and they will be back to their glory days. Most of them have been in my system for years, so they have been through a lot of ups and downs. Quite frankly, they used to be robust.

If you are interested in stopping by my place, please contact me at vlad@fragd.it or at atomikkpulse@yahoo.com. Its going to be first come first served, and prices are negotiable. Hope to see you soon.

Vlad.

So without any holdup, here is a  point form guide on how to keep SPS corals.

The ‘DOs’

• maintain stable key parameters, which include salinity, pH, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and temperature
• invest in a aquarium controller such as a ReefKeeper Elite/Lite or a Profilux
• an auto-top-off system, like an Tunze Osmolator, is a must.
• have a lot of random flow via powerheads or a closed loop system
• peg your corals with rigid airline tubing, so that you can easily remove them from areas in your tank that are not suitable (will have a post on this soon)
• must have a refugium as a biological source of removing organics
• must have a decent sized skimmer as a mechanical source of removing organics (the bigger, the better in most cases)
• either employ a two stage calcium reactor or a 3 part automatic doser for your ALK, Ca, and Mg needs
• must have at least 250w per bulb (if MH) or at least 4x54w T5 in 10K-14K spectrum
• you can supplement your corals’ nutrition by feeding them ReefRoids, Cyclop-Eeze, or ReefChilli, but it is not necessary.
• keep an eye on the proximity of each coral, as they should not touch. Certain SPS corals can have a higher stinging potency and can damage any nearby coral.
• if you add any supplements, such as any Seachem or Kent product, you must add it slowly and in half dosages (at first). Monitor your tank for any changes while you add this supplement.
• as well, add only one supplement at a time as it will be easier to monitor the changes it makes.
• dip your new frags or corals for pests. Make a quick dip session with Lugol’s Iodine, ReVive, and tank water. Setup a station of dips so that you corals will be introduced pest free.
• always use RO/DI water, and change your pre-filters every 3 months.
• visually inspect your SPS corals daily. Look for damaged areas (bites, dead spots, STN)
•  when picking out your coral from a store, use your senses to obtain a healthy specimen

The ‘DON’Ts’

• don’t do anything quick, as nothing good can come of it
• don’t forget to change your carbon once a month
• don’t use tap water. Ever.
• do not allow your RO/DI water’s TDS (Total Disolved Solids) to go above 5 ppm
• do not strip your aquarium water from nutrients too fast (via either skimming or starting carbon dosing), as you may witness a STN event
• never cheap out on flow, the more the better
• don’t be scared of angelfish. They do nip, but not at the rate to kill a coral.
• don’t be scared of keeping SPS. They are fun if you are patient!

If you have any other great tips on keeping SPS corals, please send them to info@fragd.it or make your comments below.

Immediately after, many painful hives formed on my hand.

After that, they got itchy for a few days and now remain visible after almost 2 weeks.

So newbies or not, be careful when you handle your corals, even the SPS.

Temperature Swings:

If you are noticing that there are frequent swings of 5-10 degrees F, you need to implement a some sort of a control device. Best for that would be either a specifically designed temp controller, such as.. or a system controller (the likes of Reef Keeper or Profilux). In the winter months, many of us use heaters to keep up with the heat demands. Most heaters have a controller on their own, but can often fail with wear. Equivocally during summer months, your heat can rise and is in need to be cooled down. Many hobbyists employ fans, which are directed towards the surface of the water. Some use chillers, which require a lot of electricity to run. With a system controller unit, you can tell the heaters to turn on or off, with very small hysteresis(variance), and vice versa with your fans/chillers. Your temperature will be stabilized this way, and will not fluctuate during the day or night.

Salinity Swings:

The most important aspect of keeping stony corals is keeping the salinity levels at a steady mark. The best tool for keeping your salinity in check is to use a Auto Top Off (ATO) controller, which employs light sensors. These sensors tell the controller to dump more fresh RO water from your storage container. Now, if you want even more stability and piece of mind, allow the system controller (like a Profilux or RKE) to oversee the work being done by the ATO. In a case where the sensor fails, the system controller can override the ATO. It can pump or shut off a pump in an emergency within seconds. You can monitor your salinity digitally through a system controller, and set the desired levels based on your needs. Fluctuations will be a thing of the past.

Alkalinity Drops/Jumps:

The one thing that can be easily unnoticed is your alkalinity. If you have either a calcium reactor, kalkwasser reactor or a dosing unit, the rate of which you add alkalinity can change quickly. Either your effluent/intake line can get clogged, your kalk ratio is out of balance (high concentrations), your uptake of alkalinity changes by the livestock additions, etc. There isn’t a real way to control this, outside of using a steady dripping mechanism. The only way to sure know how to meet your system’s needs is to perform day-to-day ALK tests using a kit. Once you feel satisfied that you drip rate matches your uptake rate, the swings will be minimal and tolerable.

Avoid adding buffer in one shot, when trying to stabilize your pH (or ALK). A lot of hobbists combat the swings in pH by adding a bicarbonate product, such as the Baking Soda. The relationship between ALK and pH is positive, so if you enhance one parameter, the other will be enhanced as well. So be careful, as that could cause an STN event.

ULNS (Ultra Low Nutrient System):

Corals need nutrients to grow. They need light and they need food (zooplankton). So when you strip them from nutrients, you allow them to be in a very weak state. Only through additives, such as Amino Acids, Essential Elements (Potassium, Iron, Bromide, Strontium, etc, etc), are they allowed to gain their health back. So why even go that route? But not to digress, if you are subjected to this kind of environment, think about polluting your tank. You are probably thinking that this is a crazy idea, and one that is not shared by many. But, it is true. By adding Nitrogen (or Nitrates in this case), and Phosphorous (or Phosphates), you are giving what the corals need for growth. In small amounts, these elements are necessary in water. It is only through excess that we see overgrowth from algae. So feed your tank! Feed the fish, feed the corals. Add proteins, like fish eggs, silversides, mysis shrimp. Don’t thaw your frozen food for a time period. Let those phosphates into your water. Throttle down on your skimmer. Let the skimmate come our very thick.

Do this until you notice that your refugium macroalgae is starting to take off. You chaetomorpha should be in a growth spurt. That is a sign to slow down, as your nitrates are elevated. Some say in the meantime to dose Potassium and Bromide (ZeoVit sells K-Balance and B-Balance). They aid in restoring the health and color of corals. One indicator of low Potassium or Bromide is the loss of color in montiporas and blues/reds in acroporas. Look for this key when thinking about adding Potassium and Bromide. If you are unsure of adding this stuff, just complete a 25% water change, and that should take care of some of your needs.

But sometimes, you may be required to shorten your photoperiod, as the corals in this mode are more sensitive to light.. especially when they are irritated or depleted in nutrients. High light can cause an STN event, so be careful.

If you have your story to tell, or want to share, please make your comment below. We would love to hear from you, as I am sure many of your have encountered this problem. All of us can learn from your story.

So what is it? How do we get it? How do we stop it? How do we prevent it from happening again? These are all questions that need to be answered for us to be able to attack this problem rationally.

Throughout my years of SPS nurture, I have witnessed many accounts of STN that do result in some positive and much negative outcomes. There are those instances where things improve without notice, and sometimes, never even give a coral a chance to survive. The coral’s ‘skin’ recession begins at the base, and ends with the axial corallites (tips). So what is it really that makes the coral recede without warning? For now, the reasons are still ambiguous as there are many factors to consider. Some people claim that they see it begin with alkalinity swings. Some say that with temperature swings, you can get the same results. Currently, there is a new belief that in a low nutrient system (such as a Zeo, Ultralith), you can trigger an STN event. On that more later in part 2.

Here are some pictures of corals experiencing STN. Please note, these pictures are not for those of faint hearts:

While many accounts of STN can be attributed to rapid temperature fluctuations, or even alkalinity swings, none can be more perplexing as some witnessed in an ULN System (Ultra-Low Nutrient System). Stay tuned in tomorrow for my explanation on why ULN Systems are not good for your reef and what you can do to combat it.

Here is the rundown: use all of your senses! Except your tongue of course. We will not be responsible if you end up chowing down on some Cyphastrea. And your ears. Don’t be sticking an A. prostrata down your tubes for no apparent reason. Just use your eyes, nose, and hands. Lets us show you what we mean:

• Pickup the coral and rotate it in every direction.
• Use your eyes to scan the corals for tissue damage
• Look for ‘skin’ that is peeling away from the skeleton. That is a sign of RTN/STN. Put it down, and move on.
• Look for bad crabs (a future post is necessary). Take them out, as they eat your coral.
• Never assume that a fluorescent color is good. It just means that the coral is severely stressed out.
• When choosing your color, always assume it will be darker than it looks. IE: Pink to Red, Neon Blue to Deep Blue
• Always look for polyps. If they are present, it is an excellent sign.
• If you are still unsure, get yourself to know what a healthy coral smells like. Personally, I think  it smells like a sweet fruit, or a flower. A dying SPS coral will have decaying, fouling smell. Compare a few corals to distinguish which one smells sweet.
• When you get home, ALWAYS dip your new corals. Some of the common pests include: Red Bugs (Tegastes acroporanus), Acropora Eating Flat Worms (AEFW), and Red Flat Worms (Planaria Flat Worms). Use a combination of Revive, Interceptor, Flat Worm Exit, and TMPCC (in separate dips).

Don’t forget, if you are still unsure, you can send us an email at info@fragd.it. We answer all, except spam! Well, sometimes spam is interesting to answer….

Now go and get your new SPS! Be ready to show it off!

When looking at identification of  SPS corals, many find it hard to identify using online detailed descriptions (such as those found on AIMS). So let us give you all a helping hand by giving you the common (or not so common) terms used to describe hard coral structures:

Description Terms

prostrate- to lay flat (as on the ground)

taper(ed)- to become smaller or thinner toward one end

incipient- beginning to exist or appear

axial- on an axis, situated in

Structural Terms

coenosteum- the skeleton, or body, of the coral

corallite(s)- the skeleton of a single coral polyp

branchlet(s)- a small branch or a subdivision of a branch

Formation of Corallites

immersed corallites – corallites that are embedded within the coral wall

tubular corallites – corallites that are in tube form

irregular corallites – corallites that are positioned in an irregular pattern

axial corallites – corallites that are often referred to as ‘coral tips’

radial corallites – corallites around the stalk (base) of the coral

Types of Corallites

conical – tapering from the wide base

tubular – tube-like shapes

oblique – tube that resembles one that looks cut in an angle

labellate – flaring lip-like

nariform - nose-like

cochleariform – ear-like

dimidiate - undeveloped looking corallite

immersed - flush against the coral

sub-immersed - semi showing from the body of the coral, with some ridges out

appressed - angled, but close to the coral body

rounded tubular - berry- or keg-like

round - the opening is rounded when viewed from the end

oval - the opening is oval when viewed from the end

Growth Forms

digitate – growth in finger form

hispidose – contain short branchlets from the main branch

corymbose – cluster growth form

tabulate – plate like forms

arborescent – tree like formation of brachlets

caespitose – bushly interlocking branchlets

table – growths like a dinner table

When looking for identification of your coral, try to describe it through 4 stages: Growth Form, Types of Corallites, Type of Coenosteum, and Formation of Corallites. We’ll give you an example:

Acropora formosa

Growth Form: arborescent

Type of Corallites: Radial – tubular  Axial – protruding

Formation of Corallites: Radial – irregular or regular formation

Type of Coenosteum: smooth

Now go on, and give it a try. Its easy!

I know its May 1st, but how can you review the month without having it end first? Tricky eh?

So lets look at the Coral Trends for April 2009. It seems as though nothing has changed in the US of A. Chalice corals are still the hot tickets. They are almost like collector cards for reefers: small, never grow, and very colorful. While in Canada, there isn’t any specific coral that is coming through as the ‘must get coral’. Western Canada is experiencing a surge in deep water acropora, while Eastern Canada is still suffocated with ‘deep water zoanthids’. My sources tell me the next big thing in Canada will be, Yumas… again. Its cyclical people!

CANADA:

Deep Water Zoanthids

Still going strong. But, I don’t get it. There are like 5 morphs and I think most people have them all. (photos by OceansDirect.ca)

United States:

Echinophyllia (Chalice Coral)

How do you explain the rage for corals that grow in milimeters per year. I do get it that they are beautiful, but having frags that are 1/2″ big that need to grow into 8″x6″ colonies, is just not worth the price tag! 100$-200$ per 1/2″ frag? In a recessionary times? I’ll just stick to my diet pepsi..err SPS corals (photos by surfin (2x), patedship (2x), on Reef2Reef.com)

So what is in a name? A definition? A description? A trademark? A benchmark? A way to differentiate between two opposites? Or alikes?

You all know that I do a lot of web surfing,  sometimes too much.. friends add. But it allows me to get an understanding what is happening in many regions of the North American reefing industry. I can get a good feel on the pulse of the hobby in an area. So why is this entry labeled ‘Name Game Gone Berserk” and how does it relate to all of this?

Well, let me tell you. I am witnessing a vast majority of reefers AND e-tailers over-marketing every possible coral known to man to make a dollar. I am seeing SPS, LPS and soft corals getting the same treatment that a marketing firm would supply to big dogs such as Pepsi or McDonalds. I am seeing greed, and I am seeing detriment to our hobby. And I can’t stand it any longer!

Initially it was great. We would have very unique slower growing corals that were insanely colorful which couldn’t be found by many reefers. Usually, we tagged them with the farmer’s name and that would have been it. A lot of people would  use it to track lineage for originality as most likely they would command a hefty tag.  Steve Tyree, Greg Carroll, ORA are some that originally had their names on certain corals, corals that were worthy of unique names.  Now, for example, we have local e-tailers (online vendors) who cannot stop naming every coral in their possession with their acronyms. Is it necessary to label an aquacultured pink birdsnest a TNR Highlighter Pink Odyssey S. hysterix? Or a bluish grey chalice a TNR Enter The Matrix Echinophyllia? Trying to make a 20$ frag turn into a 120$ frag? Sad, really.

Not too long ago, I wrote on the whole name game and why it was ok to do so.  I think now I feel ashamed to even had thought so. Greed stewed this all up. People trying to profit from everyday corals that are seen in the hobby. Why not name something that is rarely seen? Something that takes three times as long to grow? Something that it is an immense challenge to keep?

But the problem lies with the vendors. They think all of their coral are unique and rare. Unsuspecting buyers would acquire this coral, and then see it at another location dubbed something completely different. Is that healthy for our hobby? Does anyone have any respect towards the consumers?  What about towards the hobby? Because partaking in this name game is completely and utterly disrespectful towards any member of our global community who takes a lot of pride and strives toward caring and culturing for hard to find and keep corals.

So lets keep the names on corals that need it, and discard your shameful acronyms. Unless of course you have the rarest collection known to man!