Digital Aquatics is excited to announce the imminent release of our myReef ReefKeeper management software package for the PC. This new software package will allow PC users to interact with their ReefKeeper in many new and powerful ways. From easy programming of the system to system updates, myReef makes things easy. myReef is the culmination of 8 months of hard work that was based on a long list of customer requests and it’s finally here. myReef 2.0 is compatible with the RKE and RKL systems running firmware version 2.0 or higher. See below for complete system requirements.

Now in private beta testing myReef will enter into the public beta stage here in a couple weeks. It will be on our site for download for any customer that wishes to participate in the public beta.

Related posts:

1. MACNA Day 2: Digital Aquatics Beefs Up
2. Digital Aquatics: RKL and NET in Harmony?
3. Digital Aquatics: SL2 Modules Shipped

ReefKeeper™ Elite
-New and improved graphics, menu flow and general look and feel.
-Advanced module capable.
–What is an advanced module?
—RD1
—NET 2.0
—SID 2.0 (Needed for myReef™)
-NET module control (on/off/auto)
-NET security setting (restrict remote control)
-Settable channel default states in the event of communication loss with head unit
-Integrated Storm mode for advanced pump and lighting control
-Expanded timers to include random mode

Remote control through your iPhone? Now that is innovation at its finest!

Have you bought your RKE yet?

Related posts:

1. Digital Aquatics: Begins Work On The TPC
2. Digital Aquatics: SL2 Modules Shipped
3. MACNA Day 2: Digital Aquatics Beefs Up

Temperature Swings:

If you are noticing that there are frequent swings of 5-10 degrees F, you need to implement a some sort of a control device. Best for that would be either a specifically designed temp controller, such as.. or a system controller (the likes of Reef Keeper or Profilux). In the winter months, many of us use heaters to keep up with the heat demands. Most heaters have a controller on their own, but can often fail with wear. Equivocally during summer months, your heat can rise and is in need to be cooled down. Many hobbyists employ fans, which are directed towards the surface of the water. Some use chillers, which require a lot of electricity to run. With a system controller unit, you can tell the heaters to turn on or off, with very small hysteresis(variance), and vice versa with your fans/chillers. Your temperature will be stabilized this way, and will not fluctuate during the day or night.

Salinity Swings:

The most important aspect of keeping stony corals is keeping the salinity levels at a steady mark. The best tool for keeping your salinity in check is to use a Auto Top Off (ATO) controller, which employs light sensors. These sensors tell the controller to dump more fresh RO water from your storage container. Now, if you want even more stability and piece of mind, allow the system controller (like a Profilux or RKE) to oversee the work being done by the ATO. In a case where the sensor fails, the system controller can override the ATO. It can pump or shut off a pump in an emergency within seconds. You can monitor your salinity digitally through a system controller, and set the desired levels based on your needs. Fluctuations will be a thing of the past.

Alkalinity Drops/Jumps:

The one thing that can be easily unnoticed is your alkalinity. If you have either a calcium reactor, kalkwasser reactor or a dosing unit, the rate of which you add alkalinity can change quickly. Either your effluent/intake line can get clogged, your kalk ratio is out of balance (high concentrations), your uptake of alkalinity changes by the livestock additions, etc. There isn’t a real way to control this, outside of using a steady dripping mechanism. The only way to sure know how to meet your system’s needs is to perform day-to-day ALK tests using a kit. Once you feel satisfied that you drip rate matches your uptake rate, the swings will be minimal and tolerable.

Avoid adding buffer in one shot, when trying to stabilize your pH (or ALK). A lot of hobbists combat the swings in pH by adding a bicarbonate product, such as the Baking Soda. The relationship between ALK and pH is positive, so if you enhance one parameter, the other will be enhanced as well. So be careful, as that could cause an STN event.

ULNS (Ultra Low Nutrient System):

Corals need nutrients to grow. They need light and they need food (zooplankton). So when you strip them from nutrients, you allow them to be in a very weak state. Only through additives, such as Amino Acids, Essential Elements (Potassium, Iron, Bromide, Strontium, etc, etc), are they allowed to gain their health back. So why even go that route? But not to digress, if you are subjected to this kind of environment, think about polluting your tank. You are probably thinking that this is a crazy idea, and one that is not shared by many. But, it is true. By adding Nitrogen (or Nitrates in this case), and Phosphorous (or Phosphates), you are giving what the corals need for growth. In small amounts, these elements are necessary in water. It is only through excess that we see overgrowth from algae. So feed your tank! Feed the fish, feed the corals. Add proteins, like fish eggs, silversides, mysis shrimp. Don’t thaw your frozen food for a time period. Let those phosphates into your water. Throttle down on your skimmer. Let the skimmate come our very thick.

Do this until you notice that your refugium macroalgae is starting to take off. You chaetomorpha should be in a growth spurt. That is a sign to slow down, as your nitrates are elevated. Some say in the meantime to dose Potassium and Bromide (ZeoVit sells K-Balance and B-Balance). They aid in restoring the health and color of corals. One indicator of low Potassium or Bromide is the loss of color in montiporas and blues/reds in acroporas. Look for this key when thinking about adding Potassium and Bromide. If you are unsure of adding this stuff, just complete a 25% water change, and that should take care of some of your needs.

But sometimes, you may be required to shorten your photoperiod, as the corals in this mode are more sensitive to light.. especially when they are irritated or depleted in nutrients. High light can cause an STN event, so be careful.

If you have your story to tell, or want to share, please make your comment below. We would love to hear from you, as I am sure many of your have encountered this problem. All of us can learn from your story.

Related posts:

1. STN and The Real Issues, part 1
2. STN and The Real Issues, part 2
3. The DOs and DON’Ts of SPS Keeping

Hot of the burner is a story of the work being done into the controller module for the Tunze pumps, dubbed the TPC (Tunze Pump Controller). The project was needed as the demand for this unit has exponentially increased in the last year. The release date is unknown as this time, but you could see it in your home in six months time. This module will have four plug-ins for the pumps and will be controlled by the Head unit on your RKE system. This will allow those who want to own a Tunze pump, but don’t want to pay for their controller, to enjoy its benefits. Alongside RKE’s 2.0 firmware, this module will be able to do a lot of neat things. For that (the firmware 2.0 announcement), you have to tune to us later.

The biggest announcement of this module is not its functionality, but its price…… approx 150$USD. Not too shabby considering that the Tunze controlling units can get expensive rather quickly. How about 270$USD for a multicontroller. Yikes! I bet Tunze won’t like that

Chalk up another one for DA under the ‘excellent job’ category! Now I have to give our News Fairy a much needed vacation. Thanks Reeferbell for your hard work!

Until next time reefnecks!

Related posts:

1. Digital Aquatics: Sneak Peek at 2.0
2. Digital Aquatics: RKL and NET in Harmony?
3. Digital Aquatics To Be Releasing Float Switches

After visiting with GHL yesterday and their impressive new upgrade, we got a closer look at the Digital Aquatics’s new eye opening lineup. We spoke to Scott Bogner about what DA is brewing up this year but he was tight lipped about some of their new modules that they intend to release. He did confirm that it will involve a module which will be controlling a very popular brand of German powerheads. He also laid out plans for DA to upgrade their head unit firmware to 2.0. Some of the new features would be the ability to fully control your RKE through a wifi network (using your NET module). Furthermore, with the new software, the ground loop errors with some pH and ORP probes (and now Salinity) will be eliminated.

We can also confirm that we will be bringing you many DIY videos and tutorials on how to setup numerous RKE/RKL modular systems.

Stay tuned here for up to date information on all of your Digital Aquatics needs!

Related posts:

1. Digital Aquatics: SL2 Modules Shipped
2. Digital Aquatics: Sneak Peek at 2.0
3. Digital Aquatics: On The Verge of 2.0

The RKM-SL2 is the newest System Lab module from Digital Aquatics. It’s a big leap forward with fully (and individually,) isolated ph and salinity ports. On top of that, the Digital Aquatics salinity probe is equipped with full digital temperature compensation built in! This make it easy to calibrate and ideal for testing a variety of tanks. Whether you’re mixing for a water change, monitoring your main system, checking up on a quarantine or frag tank the SL2 with conductivity probe will report a true and accurate value!

The SL2 also allows for another temperature probe to be added to the system for redundant monitoring as well as two more switch inputs; great for ATO systems or leak detectors.

This module is fairly cheap for its utility. Priced at $80.00US, without the Salinity probe, your salinity problems are no more. In fact, with the aid of the NET module, you can see your salinity levels on the go. On a blackberry, iPhone, or a Palm Pre.

But there is an asterix that we need to talk about.

The installation, or the calibration, is not dumbed down. Here are some instructions to properly calibrate your SL2 and its probe (from the Digital Aquatic’s forum):

The new Digital Aquatics salinity probe is an advanced probe that requires an acclimation period when being introduced to your tank. Please read the steps below before using the salinity probe to control dosing or other tank altering actions. Digital Aquatics includes an easy to use, reusable calibration solution bottle for PPT. Do not discard this solution after your first calibration!

1) Follow the steps on the calibration/installation form. Once complete, tightly replace the cap to the calibration bottle and save for the following steps.
2) Watch the PPT reading for the next few days you will see it trend upward as the probe acclimates to your tank.
3) After about 72 hours you should see the readings level off.
4) Once the readings have leveled off, repeat the calibration steps. Make sure to dry the probe tip for the first calibration step in open air (00.0 PPT.)
5) Continue to watch the PPT readout for the next couple days to insure its reading has in fact leveled off. It is not unlikely to have to repeat these steps one or two times. Once the PPT has become stable, you may now use the PPT reading in your system for control.
6) Important notes: Inexpensive hydrometers are not suitable as a comparable baseline. While often consistent their reading can be off by several PPT. If doing an advanced comparison/qualification, use a high grade refractometer that has been properly calibrated.

While you read this, I am slowly unwrapping my SL2. Will post my experiences with this unit soon, so tune in.

Related posts:

1. MACNA Day 2: Digital Aquatics Beefs Up
2. Digital Aquatics: Begins Work On The TPC
3. Digital Aquatics: Sneak Peek at 2.0

Well Digital Aquatics keeps getting better and better. A few months after their announcement for newer modules to your RKE system, today they have released news that they will be shipping out float switches that are compatible with the RKE and RKL controllers. Imagine not needing to buy a very expensive Auto Top Off unit (although, I still swear by my Tunze Osmolator). Imagine having an automated water changes system. Imagine having a self cleaning skimmer. All those things are now possible with these switches.

Here is what DA has to say regarding their new baby:

The new Digital Aquatics float switch kits make configuration quick and easy!

There are countless ways to use these new float switches with either your RKE or RKL system. Program an Auto Top Off (ATO) system, automate water transfers, setup safety alerts for high AND low water levels, skimmer collection cup full alerts and so much more!

Each kit comes with programming instructions and an installation guide to help you get up and running quickly. Our configurable mounting brackets will work with almost any tank or sump application. The floats are fully submersible and made of a long lasting rugged plastic compound that is reef safe. Our mounts are made of aquarium-grade acrylic and are also reef safe, as is all provided hardware.

There will be three kits available:

1:
1 x Float Switch
1 x Switch adapter kit

2:
1 x Float Switch
1 x Switch adapter kit
1 x Mounting kit

3:
2 x Float Switch
2 x Switch adapter kit
2 x Mounting kit

And the price is right, only 44.99$ for the best Kit (#3). I think that worth investing in a RKE. For me, I will be using it to automate my water changes. One of the last steps for full system automation.

Related posts:

1. Digital Aquatics: SL2 Modules Shipped
2. Digital Aquatics: Sneak Peek at 2.0
3. Digital Aquatics: Begins Work On The TPC

Lets do a quick little update on how the ‘continual coral food theory’ is coming along. If you are in puzzlement, look here to get you up to speed.

Initially, I started with two cleaner shrimps inside the refugium, and four in the display. The display was and is on a moonlight cycle, and the refuge on a regular light cycle (opposite of display). My first observations were primitive, but yet interesting. I noted in the last post on this topic that all of the shrimp molted at the same time. This was probably due to the moon cycle triggering a group molt. Coincidentally, the shrimp in the refuge never molted (or never had seen their molts).

Fast track to today! Some of you all don`t know about cleaner shrimp`s deadly behavior. I must inform you that no matter how many shrimp (cleaner in this case) you have in your display (or any tank), they will dwindle to only a pair. Why? They are very territorial and will kill all in existence once paired. I currently only have two shrimp in the display, a far cry from four a few months ago. On the other hand, the two paired shrimp in the fuge are fine, thank you for asking.

So what about their reproduction?  Both sets of shrimp now have eggs along their undersides. That’s four with eggs. Now, what is very interesting, is that the shrimp in the fuge carried eggs way before the shrimp in the display. You would say, ‘oh, its because they were probably more mature!’. And you would be right if they were bought in two separate batches. But they were not. They all came together in a single batch, so I could safely assume they were the same age.

As it stands right now, they have not released their eggs. The display shrimp have started carrying eggs short after my last post on this topic. This is also when they killed the last shrimp. Sad story, probably has a Stephen King novel written all over it.. really! But the remaining shrimp, by calendar, have been holding for close to a month. The babies are be due any moment now. Should be checking the fuge tonight. Who knows, I may see a tiny cleaner alive!

In the meantime, I will try to acquire more shrimp.. specifically a couple of blood shrimp.

As always, come back to hear more on this, and other cool little topics that we bring. C-ya reefnecks!!

Related posts:

1. Sustaining Coral Food: Updated!
2. Food For Thought
3. The Underutilization of Cleaner Shrimps

So for the weekend, I wanted to showcase my reef system to friends coming over for a BBQ. Everyone loves blue hued water, especially our non-reefer friends. Contrary to popular belief, yes,  even I do (as I am a notorious 10K bulb user). Without any thought, I made the switch to 20K bulbs on Friday after the lights went out.

Saturday morning, the fish and corals looked brilliant. It reminded me how I loved seeing my corals in a different, more enhanced light. The 20K bulbs burned so blue, that every accent on the  corals was pronounced. Reds were blood red, blues were deep blue, greens neon green, and on. It was reeftastic!

Saturday passed on with fish and corals getting the long blue hue treatment. Sunday came with a lot of work ahead. Cleaning the house was in order, so the tanks were given very little attention. The BBQ was cleaned, house vacuumed, and fish were left unfed! Hungry fish always prove to be a great party trick for later on.

Unfortunately, most of my friends love fish, don’t care at all for the corals. Strange, as some of the corals have a lot more personality than some fish. Party trick number two: show people how coral polyps retract into their coral bodies. It gets a lot of “Oooh”s and “Woaaah”s. Works every time. So now, friends are gone, ate my food and were off of my driveway. Now what?

I tend to  finish my nights with glancing at graphs and parameters of my system. If you didn’t already know, and have been hiding under a bus (hide-and-seek game was over long time ago),  the Reef Keeper Elite controls my entire system and gives me detailed information on how everything is doing. Last night, something was amiss. I was looking at why my pH was looking very low. It was reading at 7.79, a figure that I haven’t seen so far. In fact, it was low for both Saturday and Sunday. On average, the pH runs between 7.85 (morning) to 8.05 (afternoon). So why did I see this anomaly? See the graph.

Resting before going to sleep, I was thinking about what could have caused the pH to drop. Then it hit me… like somebody dropping a 5 gallon saltwater bucket onto my head!

Lack of photosynthesis!

I remember Randy Holmes-Farley stating once long time ago:

Photosynthesis is the process whereby organisms convert carbon dioxide and water to carbohydrate and oxygen.

6CO₂ +  6H₂O   + light   à C₆H₁₂O₆ (carbohydrate) + 6O₂

A lower intense bulb, such as a 20,000 Kelvin bulb, will prohibit higher rates of photosynthesis in corals. Conversely, a 10K bulb will have higher intensity, and thus, higher rates of photosynthesis. Hmmm. Another thing that I considered was an increase of CO2 in the basement due to having people over, but that would mean that only on Sunday the pH was low and not on Saturday. So it had to be photosynthesis.

Lower rates of CO2 consumption in the water by corals through photosynthesis caused the pH to stay on the lower side. Having everything else equal (for the most part, aside from having people over on Sunday for a few hours), the difference between 20K and 10K bulbs is the change in rates of production of carbohydrates (energy), CO2 consumption, and production of oxygen.

For me, changing bulbs to 20K was a swing of 0.06 on the pH scale. Note to self, use 20K lights only for a few hours, not days! Thats what actinics are for, right? See ya tomorrow reefnecks!

Related posts:

1. The Importance of Changing Your Bulbs
2. Top 10 Things Non-Reef Friends Find Amusing About Your Tank
3. Fragd.it Coral Profiles

Man, that was a lot of geek talk there. If you were too giddy and omitted this section, you lost out on the true potential of the NET. What we will discuss here is how to feed your PDA, iPhone or Blackberry with RSS. Online, all the time baby!

Lets go:

1. First, you need to make your IP address static (as most ISPs give you dynamic addresses).
2. If you do not have one, go to no-ip.org and register your unique address. The process is very straight forward. If you are too lazy for this, I can go over it with you…
3. FOR THE LAZY ONES (Skip to step 6 if you have two seconds of your time to register yourself without a guide) Register with the site first. Then add a new host. Type in your new host name. Make it something that you can remember. Something like ‘doofus12345reef‘ is good enough as long as you can remember the spelling.
4. ‘Host type’ should be ‘Port 80 Redirect’, IP Address should be your bridge address (mine was 192.168.1.xxx), ‘port’ should be the port that is forwarded in your router (discussed later). Make it anything  you want except 80. I set it at 7001, which you can do as well.
5. Thats it, save. You have a registered static domain. But you have to make sure that when the dynamic IP address changes, so does the one listed at no-ip.org. For that, you have to download their program which checks for any updates to your dynamic address. It will change it automatically if it is different, so that you do not have to go to no-ip every time.
6. We have to route the router (now thats ironic) to recognise your new IP’s port (in this case 7001).
7. In your router, using DD-WRT software, you should see a screen like this:

   

8. Fill out these fields like I did in the screen shot. Make sure you are single port forwarding, rather than triggering and/or port range forwarding.
9. After that, save and you are done.
10. Go to your RSS reader and type in your new static domain from no-ip. So its your new domain+your new port+rss suffix. IE http://doofus12345reef.no-ip.org:7001/rss/rss.xml
11. Enjoy checking out your new toy!!

Happy Reefing!
Questions, comments, or suggestions can be slapped onto our comments section. Fire away!

Related posts:

1. Configuring The NET Module, continued…
2. Configuring The Bridge With Your NET Module, continued…
3. System Partially Online