So… lets chat results. If you are lost, and have to catch up, here is the article that changed the way a lot of us clean our acrylic.

If you still don’t know how to use one, here is a sample:

Step 1. Wet sponge with tank water.

Step 2. Lightly move sponge against the acrylic pane.

Step 3. Algae comes off.

Still worried? A famed, and on-call reef chemist Randy Holmes-Farley had his take on this at Reef Central:

Melamine as a plastic is likely OK. I’d be more concerned about tiny fibrous bits of fine plastic breaking off and irritating things, but that’s random speculation.

It is located in the cleaning isle, second shelf, near the everyday scrubbers. Thank us later.

For the rest of us, lets get to the meat of the results:

Elite Reef (R2R):

i have glass so i can scrub with whatever i want but i do use one from time to time. i wont say i find it better then any other method i use but it does work well. as for otehr household uses however it works GREAT!!. love those things.

FYI target sell a generic brand that is larger in size and half the price. it is the exact same thing.

ReefRunner (R2R)

I’ve been very happy with it. It makes cleaning my acrylic tank and my glass bowfront very easy. It does not take the coraline off though so you do have to remove that like you normally do. I find that it seems to polish my acrylic as well.

zoous (R2R)

I used it yesterday and it works like a charm. But you still need to apply pressure in order to remove tougher stains. Yeah, coralline algae is a no go. It does very well on scratched surfaces as well.

gparr (R2R)

I always thought it had some kind of embedded chemical in it. Apparently, that’s not the case.

Ladypig (the oroginal discoverer of this magic tool)

A few notes I’d like to add. Others have said that this will definitely scratch a tank. I have drop the level of my tank 5 inches to allow it to dry to see if it showed any signs of hazing or scratching…there were none…ZERO…NADA..my tank is crystal clear. On another forum there was someone who claimed to mask off part of an “acrylic” ruler and was able to scratch it with the Magic Eraser. I have not been able to find an acrylic ruler locally at the office stores etc to try and duplicate his findings. Plenty of plastic but not acrylic…that being said…my tank is of a MUCH higher quality acrylic than what it available for 50 cents from a dollar store. If there weren’t different grades of acrylic then there wouldn’t be different prices. Also, I don’t think I could use an acrylic polishing kit to buff out an acrylic ruler.

While the Magic Eraser will remove coraline with a little elbow grease, I really would not recommend it. Coraline is a hard deposit and I’m sure pieces of it would stick in the sponge and that might possibly scratch your tank, same as getting a piece of sand or crushed coral caught in the sponge…it would scratch and you would want to blame the sponge..when it was what was caught in it that did the scratching.

Do a good, one time cleaning on the tank then use the sponge as a daily maintenance step. Don’t wait 6 months to clean and then moan that it doesn’t really work. A little daily swipe saves a lot of time and elbow grease effort in the long run.

Use common sense…if you’re not comfortable doing a front pane, try a side pane for a while and see if you are happy with the results.
This is something I researched before I tried it…I should start a “Lazy Reefer” blog with all my short cuts. Some will not want to try this, the decision is of course, theirs.

SaltySteele (R2R)

upon nina’s recommendation i started using this a couple months ago. works great, and acrylic looks better than it did before i started using it! no abrasive, other than the material is tightly stranded material (kinda like fiberglass, but different material, and much denser, but even thinner strands). i use my dobia pad for the coraline, but everything else is made quick work of by my mr. clean!

Smann (PNWMAS)

Picked up a box last night after reading this thread. seemed to work well. After it was wet it sliced very easily with a razor into thin sheets which I used with my Hammerhead magnet. It stayed on fine but you cant jump corners. going to let things dirty up a little then try one area with the white pad and then with the eraser to see if I can notice a difference.

colorfan45 (ReefCentral)

I use them on my zero edge aquarium and they rock.

snorvich (ReefCentral)

Having now tried Magic Eraser, I find it works well with some kinds of algae and not so well with others. Still, a good product.

jpa0741 (ReefCnetral)

I shaved off a thin piece and have been using it between my magnet now for about a month. I have been very happy with the results. I would definitly say it is less harsh then the dobie pad I was using before this.

Lots of evidence that this thing works! Have you tried it?

It seems as though this weeks theme may actually be talking about your pH. That’s per hydrogen, not pretty hottie!

Just like your own bodies pH, it is important to know how to monitor it, change it, and control it. Yesterday’s article proved that little things such as light bulbs can adversley affect the parameter. So lets take a look at things that can change and things that you can do to control your water’s pH.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) – Found in air, and in your water. A big part of the photosynthesis equation (seen here). Used in calcium reactors to dissolve calcium media by lowering the pH (making the water more acidic). Too much in your tank’s water, both fish and corals suffocate. It is the main factor in the changes in your pH.

Alkalinity (meq/L, or dkH) – A measure of how your water can neutralize acids to the equivalence point of carbonate or bicarbonate. In this instance, alkalinity is positively correlated with the pH of your tank’s water. The more is added (alkalinity buffer), the higher it (pH) gets. And vice versa.

Photosynthesis – Many corals (autotrophs), and all algae go through this process. The consumption (lowering) of CO2 in water through photosynthesizing helps balance the pH in aquaria. As seen in yesterday’s article, corals/algae gain energy and thus, consume more of CO2, release oxygen, and on, on (kind of like a vicious cycle, but in a positive way).

Aeration – Water turbulence or surface agitation provides much needed gas exchange between the air outside the tank, and the gases inside the water. The CO2 gases need to be equalized with the air outside (containing O2, CO2, and other gases) to regain a stable pH reading. If your air already has high concentrations of CO2, then you need to find a way to increase air exchange between the inside and outside of your house. As always, the outside air has much higher concentrations of O2 than, for example, your basement air.

Calcium Reactor – There are many improperly setup reactors in this hobby. Many of them use a single chamber to supply their needed calcium/alkalinity. As their tank’s needs increase, so does their drip rate. A recipe for a disaster, especially having 6.4 pH water displeasing 7.8 pH. A way to neutralize this swing in pH is to succeed the first chamber with another, filled with aragonite media. As the water travels, its pH regains a more neutral value, enabling you to drip much faster without any worry.

Randy Holmes-Farley, an accredited man of science and my favorite reefy chemist, wrote an article in 2004 showing how pH can have different effects on your tank’s parameters. What struck me was how we can move the pH up and down by just a little human influence. The graphs summarized everything, take a look:

Graph 1 shows the relationship between an normal/elevated CO2 levels with pH (the green dot is where we find the natural seawater equilibrium)

Graph 2 shows the corresponding pH and alkalinity levels within the normal and elevated CO2

Graph 3 shows how we can move towards a higher pH point by just aerating the water, keeping alkalinity the same

Graph 4 explains how we can slightly influence the pH by making the water more alkaline.

Last graph shows how by combining both methods we can greatly influence the ph in water.

(graphs are courtesy of Reef Keeping Magazine and by Randy Holmes-Farley)

So by just aerating, adding more alkalinity, or both, we can substantially influence the water’s pH. Something to consider when your pH data is off.

Huh?

Let me explain. A giant mass of intermediate reefers are rediscovering a method, which when applied, could supposedly remove unwanted phosphates, nitrates and algae. Ripping out your tank you say? Nuking your rock in some bioling water? Nah, it wouldn’t be that extreme. I am talking about Vodka dosing. Yes, your regular on the shelf Smirnoff.

Apparently what you are dosing is ethanol, commonly known as vodka. It is supposed to help reduce organics in your water by allowing the PO4/NO3 assimilating bacteria to grow in mass. Then, by mechanical extraction, you can skim the nutrients (and the binding bacteria) out of solution (water).

Recently, due to a lot of chatter, ReefKeeping magazine had published an article written by Nathaniel Walton and Matt Bjornson digesting the topic of dosing ethanol. This is what they have to say:

The addition of vodka/ethanol is thought to increase bacterial biomass. For this, vodka addition would result in bacterial growth and reproduction. During this process nutrients in the water (including NO3 and PO4) are taken up for the formation of new macromolecules that are needed in cell synthesis and viability. Due to this rapid growth and reproduction, NO3 and PO4 can drop quickly from detectable levels by most test kits on the market. The increased biomass of the bacteria leads to a notable increase in skimmate production, removing more waste than without vodka addition. The increased skimmate is thought to remove the bacteria or bacterial biproducts that have assimilated the NO3 and PO4 within the water column leading to NO3 and PO4 depletion.

In other words, to eliminate the PO4 or NO3, you need something to consume it. By adding ethanol, you are increasing the biomass of the bacteria that consumes organics. But step two would require you to effectively skim these bonded nutrients to complete the elimination process.

Directions, for those that don’t want to read the long article (based on 80% proof, 40% ethanol vodka) are as followed:

1. Test your system’s NO3 and PO4 levels. Do not dose if you do not know this! We recommend good test kits that have some low level of sensitivity. This will be important later on to determining a maintenance dose regimen. During the initial dosing test often and adjust dosing parameters as needed as each tank’s requirement will be different. Dosing accuracy is of the utmost importance. A graduated measurement tool such as a syringe will come in handy. A journal of additions and test kit measurements is recommended.
2. Estimate your Net Water Volume (NWV) of your system. (Aquarium volume + sump + refugium + reactor volumes) – (live rock displacement). It can be difficult to accurately measure the amount of water being displaced by the live rock. If unsure of the volume of live rock we suggest taking 30% off your display tank’s Gross Water Volume. For vodka dosing there is absolutely no harm in underestimating the Net Water Volume and is recommended.
3. The starting dosage is 0.1ml of vodka per 25 gallons (~100 liters) NWV daily continued for three days. For 100 Net Gallons, your dosage would be 0.4ml daily during this period. It has been suggested to cut the daily dosage in half and dose twice daily for more consistency.
4. Days 4-7, double the daily dosage to 0.2ml of vodka per 25 gallons NWV. Your example dosage would be 0.8ml daily during this period.
5. Each subsequent week add an additional 0.5ml of vodka regardless of aquaria volume. At this point your example dosage during week two would be 1.3ml daily. If you do not see nutrient levels decrease during this week, the following week add an additional 0.5ml for a daily dosage of 1.8ml daily.
6. When your NO3 and PO4 levels start to drop maintain the current dose. For example, if you were on week two when NO3 start to fall on 100 Net Water Volume you would add 1.3mL daily at this time for the continuing weeks until the NO3 becomes undetectable.
7. When your NO3 and PO4 levels drop near undetectable with your test kits cut your current dose in half. This will be your starting maintenance dose (if the levels drop during week 2 then the dose after reaching undetectable levels would be 0.65ml daily [1.3ml divide by 2]).
8. Continue to test for NO3 and PO4. If levels become detectable in the future increase your daily dose by 0.1ml increments per week until the levels start to decrease. If you maintain that dose the levels will eventually drop back to undetectable. This would become your new maintenance dose.

(Courtesy of ReefKeeping Magazine)

So will you try this out? Will you run out to the liquor store and bring back home cases of the cheapest vodka? An article by Eric Borneman will tell you to slow that horse down. You may actually be hurting your tank’s inhabitants by doing this. You have to read this before venturing on this hot project. Stay tuned!

]]> http://blog.fragd.it/2009/03/25/one-reef-screwdriver-please/feed/ 8 http://blog.fragd.it/2009/03/03/a-magic-tool-to-clean-your-acrylic/ http://blog.fragd.it/2009/03/03/a-magic-tool-to-clean-your-acrylic/#comments Tue, 03 Mar 2009 07:41:22 +0000 vlad http://blog.fragd.it/?p=505

Well this may be one of those moments where all proud acrylic tank owners can take an deserving exhale because it seems that someone might have found the perfect cleaner for your delicate tank. Ladipyg on Reef 2 Reef forums, has used an unconventional tool to help her clean her tank: the Magic Eraser.

What is that you say? Well the Magic Eraser is a Proctor and Gamble product that manages to ‘magically’ erase or wipe out any blemishes on most surfaces. It has been recently marketed as the best cleaning sponge ever to be used at home.

So when Ladipyg used this scrubber on the inside of her tank, she found amazing results. Not only did it help clean the acrylic, but it prohibited the algae to return in faster numbers.

So what is this ‘Magic Eraser”? It is a melamine foam scrubber.  Sound worried? According to the wiki article, melamine foam is safe for our reefs:

Melamine foam is a foam-like material consisting of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer.

The foam is manufactured in Germany by BASF under the name “Basotect”. It has been used for over 20 years as insulation for pipes and ductwork, and has a long history as a soundproofing material for studios, sounds stages, auditoriums, and the like. The low smoke and flame properties of melamine foam prevent it from being a fire hazard^{[citation needed]}.

In the early 21st century it was discovered that melamine foam was an effective abrasive cleaner. The open cell foam is microporous and its polymeric substance is extremely hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper, getting into tiny grooves and pits in the object being cleaned. On a larger scale the material feels soft. Because the bubbles interconnect, its structure is more like a maze of fibreglass strands than like the array of separate bubbles in, for example, styrofoam.

The most important thing is it doesn’t have any harmful chemicals that would react under water.

So, I am tracking this thread for us acrylic owners. Because if this proves to be THE cleaner of choice for the immediate future, you will be the first to be aware. In fact, I will be trying this method out very soon and will post some results. But if you are already out the door, make sure you buy the PLAIN ones. Not the scented or anything else.
Now where is my nearest supermarket?

First we must define what Cyanobacteria (reef term Cyano) really is. This is taken from Wikipedia:

Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, blue-green bacteria or Cyanophyta, is a phylum of bacteria that obtain their energy through photosynthesis. The name “cyanobacteria” comes from the color of the bacteria (Greek: κυανός (kyanós) = blue). They are a significant component of the marine nitrogen cycle and an important primary producer in many areas of the ocean, but are also found on land.

So……………………….

Is it good or bad? For our purposes, it is extremely bad. It can without control, smother corals in a way that they suffocate. Yes, corals can suffocate. It is like putting a plastic bag over your head…. not good.

 So what do we do? First we must find the cause of your problem. I always start with the food source. Algae, like Cyano, feed on nutrients. The more you have them, the more they grow. Its like a fat kid that won’t stop eating brownies… as long as you keep making them, the kids is going to eat. So lets stop making the brownies! Stop overfeeding your tank. Lets get it on a diet plan.

Secondly, we must find a way to export these nutriets. The most known way to do that is to buy the biggest protein skimmer that you fit in your house.. I mean in your sump. Just don’t tell your wife that I told you that. If your wife won’t let you have one, then you must setup something that I religiously preach to new reefnecks….. maintain a collossal refugium. Refugiums are the best source of nutrient/metal export. I can go on forever as to why you need one, but I will save that for another entry. Until then, trust me… get one started up.

Lastly, you must improve the flow in your aqaurium. Cyano thrives in low flow, high nutrient areas. So by increasing your flow, you are managing to but your battle in half. Get the biggest pump you can without trying to recreate The Perfect Storm in your tank.

(This should be done by pros only)

If this has not resulted you in a Cyano-free tank, then buy Red Slime Remover and watch your algae dissapear. Novices should not attempt to use this method as it will kill off your entire tank! I will post on this more later on, so stay tuned.. (or just subscribe to our blog).